Brake Problems?

[blak_spawn]

Yeah here recently I started hearing this whining noise coming from the right side of myy car in the area of the wheel. I took it off and it still has a whining noise. I'm thinkin it is my brake. The only thing is that it does not whine when I use the breaks or whenever I turn it one direction ( I can't remember right or left.) Has anyone else ever had that problem or have a clue what it could be? Also, I'm looking to get some new breaks, where can I get it done and which breaks should I install.

[BDP]

It is most likely a brake problem where you've worn your brake pads down far enough that the caliper cannot manually pull the pads far enough away from the rotor.

It could also be a metal clip on the pad that is used as a "wear indicator".

I would also have the brake peeps check to make sure your wheel bearings are ok... you can check it as well by jacking up the car and rocking the entire wheel and tire back and forth from top to bottom. If it moves, then you have terrible issues. - I am too tired to remember how the wheel bearings operate on FWD cars.
Its always good to check the axle bolt each time you remove the tire and wheel to ensure it is tight, most have a lock pin to ensure the bolt won't come off, but others do not.

Make sure there is nothing touching your CV shaft or its boots and check to make sure they are not leaking grease.

I usually just go cheap pads so I wouldnt be any help in suggesting what to get :P

[blak_spawn]

okay I will take a look and see. Do you install your own stuff or where do you get it done?

[tobanybe]

yeah sounds like the low pad precaution .... brake inspection is my $.02

[BDP]

I dont know if 97's and 94-95's are that much different or not, but I found a FAQ with photos for a 95 VR-4 that explains how to install a bleeder and change the rotors (which might come in handy later on)

http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3S/Maint/All/BPad/
(maybe the photos could help if you decide to do it yourself).
Also note, that you will not need to blead the brakes if you just plan to replace the pads, you can use the c-clamp method and just force the fluid back to the reservoir.


Also, a couple guys on another forum recommended Stillen Pads
http://www.3si.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-234002.html
Another Stillen Review:
http://www.3si.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-237581.html

Some other rotor/pads recommendations:
http://www.3si.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-236158.html


There is a guy beside Sonic (by the bypass and the movie theater) on walnut in rogers who charged me pretty reasonably when he first opened the shop, I don't know what he charges now. Most any shop should be able to do it inexpensively but some do charge outragious prices especially if your rotors need resurfaced or replaced.

If you decide to replace them yourself:
Take caution and care when forcing the pistons back into the caliper as they tend to be delicate, I would use a the old pads or a wrench to apply the c-clamp presure to and not the piston itself. Also when pushing the piston(s) back in, feel for a click or a ridge that may be present... this would be due to excessively worn pads that let the piston stay pushed out and it has caused a ridge to develop in the piston sleeve... if you don't feel anything then your cool - if you do, you should eventually check into replacing the caliper as it will not retract like it should. There may also be damage to the rubber boot surrounding the piston(s), if it is damaged excessively you should check into replacing the caliper soon.